Thursday, May 26, 2022

Day 33 - 25 May - Portomarin to Os Valos

As John Denver famously sang:

You fill up my senses
Like a walk in a forest
Like the mountains in springtime
But leave out the rain
Just a little more sun please
On a walk in Galicia
You fill up my senses
Come fill me again

Galicia is very green. Very green doesn’t actually do it justice. It is green like England’s green and pleasant land. Like the green, green grass of home. Like little green apples. Like green onions. Greensleeves. Shakey’s green door. You get the picture.

We were up and at ‘em early today. With our accommodation being a mile and a half off route, we opted to set off at six thirty to get back on track, at Portomarin, by seven. Having done so we had a quick coffee before setting off on the route proper. Not having checked the guide book in any detail, the steep ascent out of town caught us a bit by surprise. The rate of ascent lessened but basically the first nine miles was uphill, climbing nearly four hundred metres. 

We stopped for coffee at an albergue in Gonzar, about half way up, then a refreshing beer at the wonderfully named Casa Molar at Ventos de Naron near the top. 

For the third day running, we are on easy paths with amazing views. The one welcome difference today though being that the sun was shining for much of the way through our fifteen miles but with a cooling breeze. Just perfect.

The Way is noticeably busier now, with lots more Spanish having joined from Sarria, particularly young people which is great to see and has brought about a welcome increase in the number of perfectly shaped bottoms in front of me. The greater numbers have added to a general air of excitement as we get closer to Santiago. In fact I was so excited that I had another beer in the garden at Casa Mariluz in Lagonde.

Further on it was lovely to catch up with Harriet (UK) who we haven’t seen in the last three weeks.

After last night’s disappointing choice of accommodation, we were keeping fingers crossed that we had chosen more wisely today, particularly with the prospect of some afternoon sunshine. This time we were not disappointed. Praise the lord. Let’s have a beer.

A little frustratingly though, the sunshine kept losing out to the clouds for most of the afternoon and early evening but we persevered, practicing for the next three days when the forecast is for wall-to-wall sunshine and decent temperatures. And by the end of Day three, good fortune permitting, that should be it; walk over. But in the meantime, we have another forty five miles to go in the wonderful green land that is Galicia. I can’t wait.

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