The Perfect Football Away Day - For Him and Her

 

This time last week, Mrs C and I found ourselves in the Spanish city of Santander on the northern coast of Spain. Not by accident obviously. Together with intrepid pals Mick and Andrea, we had decided that we needed to escape the snow and ice of Burnley in favour of a European football match and determined upon the game between Real Racing Club de Santander, SAD (usually referred to simply as Racing) and our adopted Spanish team FC Cartagena. A sixty two pounds Ryanair return fare per couple, flying Manchester to Santander, helped cement that decision.

Racing are one of the ten founding members of La Liga in Spain. Yet despite having operated in Spain's top footballing division for the greater part of its history this famous club has found itself of late yo-yoing between the second and third tiers of Spanish football with a near miss on bankruptcy thrown in for good measure. As a Sheffield Wednesday fan, this scenario seemed reassuringly familiar. Racing have made a decent start to the season, lying in eighth place in La Liga 2 whereas Cartagena had a terrible start and were rock bottom for the first few weeks of the season. However the appointment of new manager Julián Calero in late September led to a gradual improvement in results and the dizzy heights now of second bottom. Again, reassuringly familiar.

We landed at Aeropuerto de Sevy Ballesteros, Santander on the Saturday evening with time sufficient to check in to our city centre hotel and thereafter take in a few local bars ahead of the following day's match.

There is much more to Santander than its ferry port and well known multinational bank of the same name. The city stands on the beautiful Bay of Santander looking across to Pedreña, birthplace of its most famous sporting son. The centre is crammed with beautiful bars and beautiful people. Santander has it’s very own palace Palacio de la Magdalena, an arts centre Centro Botín (which resembles a giant, old fashioned domestic fan heater) and a cathedral which, whilst dating back to the twelfth century, is an ecclesiastical version of Trigger’s Broom having emerged not unscathed from a massive dynamite explosion at the nearby port in 1893 and an equally devastating fire in 1941 which laid waste to much of the city’s old town.

Generally speaking, sporting activity and keeping fit appears to play a huge part in the lives of the local population which is probably why they’re all slim and beautiful. But once you’re past it in terms of being slim and beautiful, they helpfully provide escalators and travelators - even a funicular - around the city to help you with all the uphills. Civilisation personified.

Despite its long history, Racing haven’t actually ever won anything to speak of. A sixth placed finish in 2008 saw the club rub shoulders with Manchester City and Paris Saint-Germain in the following season’s EUFA Cup but their highest ever league finish was way back in 1931 as runners-up under English coach Robert Firth.

With a two o’clock kick-off time to aim for, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast before strolling the scenic, three mile coastal walk from the city centre to Racing’s stadium Campos de Sport de El Sardinero. We Brits may not be nearly so civilised as the Spanish but it was of course the Brits that first brought football to Spain and the good people of Santander have generously acknowledged this fact with the erection of statues of famous British footballing icons along the route to the ground, amongst them world cup winner Sir Bobby Charlton, commentator Kenneth Wolstenholme and ex-Leeds and England manager Don Revie. We also found a sheet metal sculpture of the "bald eagle" Jim Smith. Probably.

Statues of British football icons Sir Bobby Charlton, commentator Kenneth Wolstenholme, ex-Leeds and England manager Don Revie and a sheet metal sculpture of "bald eagle" Jim Smith scribbling in his note book on the touchline at Birmingham City (or Newcastle United, or Derby County?). Despite these managerial postings, Jim was always a Wednesdayite. UTO. WAWAW.

Here in the UK, peak urban planning sophistication might be considered the siting of a new football ground as part of, or adjacent, to a retail shopping park at an out-of-town venue so that he gets his football and she gets her retail therapy which just strikes me as being a bit lazy and sexist. Opened in 1988, the Campos de Sport de El Sardinero however is sited not more than a couple of Ederson (Man City) drop-kicks from the soft sands of beach Playa de El Sardinero. I told you this city was civilised. Blimey, I might be tempted to choose the beach option myself on a slightly hotter day.

We arrived at the stadium an hour before kick-off, purchased a bottle of beer each and walked around the outside perimeter of the stadium whilst enjoying said beer (imagine the likely fate of a glass beer bottle in the near vicinity of a UK football stadium). It was warm and sunny, around twenty degrees, and all very relaxed. Match tickets were purchased at the stadium for twenty five euros apiece and we took our seats in the upper tier of the south stand, behind the goal, around a quarter of an hour before kick-off. A programme (of sorts) is handed out, to those who want one, free of charge upon entry.

From my limited experience of Spanish football (total ten home matches at Cartagena plus this one), crowds at Spanish games tend to be more family orientated than in the UK and everyone brings a packed lunch. Notwithstanding the absence of quite so many “lads”, the vocal participation throughout a match is consistent across all sections of the ground, led by an “ultras” section who maintain a seriously impressive ninety-minutes of singing, chanting and flag waving. Away followings though are not really a thing in Spanish football, much to do with the distances involved. Aside from the four of us, the Cartagena contingent didn’t appear to extend into double figures but, there again, any Cartagena-based crow would have been looking at a return trip of around nine hundred miles to get to this match.

The Campos de Sport de El Sardinero is a neat and tidy bowl of a stadium with a capacity of just over twenty two thousand. The combination of early kick-off, warm afternoon and absence of away fans might easily have resulted in a flat atmosphere but far from it. The fourteen thousand largely beautiful, fit and civilised home fans created a cracking atmosphere led by their “ultras” at the north end of the ground. And it all felt very safe. All the harder to believe therefore that, eleven years ago, some of these same fans attempted to storm the directors’ box, throwing bottles and other projectiles at club president Ángel Lavín, in protest at the financial mismanagement of the club at the time. The club’s financial problems were eventually rectified, two years later, with the raising of new funds via share issue by which time Lavín and his board had been ousted and Lavín was later to be jailed for his part in the mismanagement of the club.

It was this sad state of affairs off the pitch that led to the inclusion of SAD as part of the club’s official title, i.e. Real Racing Club de Santander, SAD - a sort of public shaming if you will. That is, of course, absolute bollocks although I find the concept to be not without its appeal. SAD actually stands for Sociedad anónima deportiva being a special type of public limited company for sports clubs, introduced in 1990 to help improve financial management and transparency, not that it appears to have worked for Racing in 2013.

Anyway, the game kicked off and so did Cartagena’s Tomás Alarcón who was yellow-carded in the first minute. Despite this, Cartagena started much the better organised and dangerous of the two teams and they took the lead in the sixth minute. From a smart move down the right hand side, striker Ortuño tapped in Jairo Izuierdo’s low pull-back from the byline. Racing created a couple of shooting opportunities by way of response but Cartagena could easily have gone in at half time with the match out of sight. The second half saw Racing far more dominant but Cartagena defended well, content to soak up the pressure and await the occasional opportunity to break. One such opportunity saw Racing’s Iván Morante sent off for a cynical foul on seventy five minutes. Thirteen minutes later Andrés Martín made it two red cards for the home team although he had already been substituted twenty three minutes earlier so either the referee played the longest advantage ever or Andrés had a bit too much to say from the touchline. To rub salt into the wound, Cartagena’s Kiko Olivas scored a breakaway second goal for the away team in the sixth minute of injury time as the hosts threw everything and everyone in search of an equaliser.

So, an unexpected but deserved three points for FC Cartagena in their efforts to climb away from the relegation spots. Manager Calero has them playing much cuter than earlier in the season and they were able to frustrate the home team and boss the game as a consequence. 

We strolled back towards the city centre taking the more direct route from the stadium which included a half mile long traffic and pedestrian tunnel under the hills, escalators and travelators above. Once back in the heart of the city, we took it upon ourselves to research more of the bars on offer including the food and drink hall at Mercado del Este, three speakeasy styled bars and the more traditional pintxos type bars. And we had to do it all again on the Monday and Tuesday as the earliest flight back home wasn't until Wednesday morning.

Santander makes for a great football away day, irrespective of whether all participants actually like football or not. If you like your footie but your other half doesn't then this is the trip for you. Trust me. I'm an ex-bank manager.

Chairman’s Statement

 

I get lot of stick from fans who say it their club but it mine and I put gazillions in but no more. You say I custodian which sound rude but we all love Stanley Strollers and we all want best give me hundred pound each and I pay tax bill then buy new squad. Because you not treat me better I decide to make Graeme Cook manager again and he want four times money so make that two hundred pound each. I don’t stay if you no want me but it your fault if club go down toilet. Good luck Mr Graeme.

Deadpan Cooksiri, Chairman

Club Statement

Stanley Strollers are delighted to announce the appointment this morning of Steve Bruce as our new manager.

The experienced coach took over as Strollers’ boss with immediate effect, his extensive CV including previous management spells at Sheffield United, Huddersfield Town, Wigan Athletic (twice), Crystal Palace, Birmingham City, Sunderland, Hull City, Aston Villa, Sheffield Wednesday, Newcastle United and West Bromwich Albion.

In his first interview, Bruce spoke of his long held admiration for Stanley Strollers as a “massive” club and promised to give 110% effort, commitment, passion and loyalty to his new role. 

In breaking news, Bruce has now left the Strollers to take up the manager’s role at National League club AFC Fylde who currently sit second from bottom in the table. In his first interview, Bruce said “There was only one job that would have tempted me to leave Stanley Strollers and this was it - I went to Blackpool once on holiday which is quite close so I couldn’t turn it down”. Describing his new club as “massive”, he promised to give 110% effort, commitment, passion and loyalty to his new role, until a better offer turns up of course.

Strollers’ chairman Graeme Cook said “the club would like to thank Steve for his services and wish him well for the future, the flat-nosed, money-grabbing, disingenuous twat”.

The process to appoint a new manager is now underway and we will make no further comment at this time.

Club Statement

 

Stanley Strollers have parted company with manager Graeme Cook, who leaves the club with immediate effect. 

With the club currently bottom of the Watney Cup League, Cook’s departure followed an emergency board meeting after Sunday’s Gameweek 13 matches. Chairman Graeme Cook explained “I was unanimous that a change in the dugout is required, with someone who knows how to play the Strollers way. The club would like to thank Graeme for his services and wish him well for the future, the useless twat”.

The process to appoint a new manager is now underway and we will make no further comment at this time.

Day 5 - 26 October - Cee to Finisterre

As Elkie Brooks famously sang;

Every night I pray
Tomorrow brings a sunny day and happy things
Just like the way it used to be for you and me
I want to see the sunshine after the rain
I want to see bluebirds flying over the mountains again
Sunshine after the rain
Oh where is the silver lining shining at the rainbow's end

We were warm and cosy in our hotel room overnight, in stark contrast to what was happening outside. The rain was battering our hotel room window, seemingly intent on getting in to have another go at us. There was no point rushing to get away early this morning.

We ventured downstairs to the hotel bar at around twenty past nine for coffee, croissant and complementary cake. The rain was still teeming down. The coffee was very strong, too strong to contemplate a second one and so, with the rain still teeming down, we left the sanctuary of the hotel bar at ten o’clock to face the elements.

Mrs C was kinesiology taped up to the eyeballs (well, kneecaps really) and we only had seven and a half miles to our accommodation so we had a relatively straightforward walk ahead of us. Within fifteen minutes we were out of Cee and approaching its next door neighbour town of Concubine (it may actually have been Corcubión but I prefer Concubine). We were up and through Concubine’s narrow passages in no time and a post-coastal cigarette would have been apposite except for the fact that the rain was now teasing us, ranging from very nearly having stopped to let’s get these buggers very wet again.

Around two miles in, we reached Alto San Roque from where you can catch your first sight of the cape of Finisterre and the lighthouse. Despite the rain and the mist, we did indeed catch that first sight. 

All was good. The rain was easing as we passed through Estorde and then on to a beautiful pine forest track towards Sardiñeiro. But then the rain suddenly wasn’t easing and the pine forest track was more bath than path. And then it eased again.

The bath path suddenly delivered us to Miradoiro de Talón, a vantage point from where stunning views are to be had across the bay to the town of Finisterre and the cape beyond. Here we happened upon two peregrinos taking the compulsory phone snaps of this vista. They seemed nice guys and after a brief chat, I felt it only right that I should offer to buy them a beer were we to meet up later in Finisterre.

Our wild death (as opposed to wildlife) tally increased to four species with the sight of a dead seal on the beach at Praia de Longosteira. It might feasibly have been a sand-filled sack but we weren’t inclined to undertake a detailed investigation so we’ll stick with the seal option. Apart from dead seals (or sacks), the beach at Praia de Longosteira is a mile and a bit of loveliness and leads you right into Finisterre itself.

Amazingly, as we entered Finisterre, the rain stopped, the clouds parted and the sun came out, Russia called it a draw with Ukraine and the EFL (English Football League) apologised for deducting six points from Sheffield Wednesday a couple of seasons back and agreed to give them the points back plus six more for good luck. Okay, two of these three scenarios didn’t happen but the one that did was very welcome and not a little poetic.

We found our accommodation and got ourselves sorted over the next hour. We weren’t finished yet. We had the lighthouse to get to, another two miles away. By now, the weather forecast was for nothing worse than strong winds and we set off once again, this time minus rucksacks and wet weather gear, tempting fate admittedly but who doesn’t enjoy doing so from time to time?  

Climbing out of Finisterre, the marked route tracks the AC-445 road to the lighthouse, a gentle incline alongside huge pine trees on the steep and rocky banks between road and sea. As we were walking up to the lighthouse, so other peregrinos were walking back down, one of whom was one of the guys I had earlier promised to buy a beer. It would have been rude to pretend this hadn’t happened so I reiterated the offer as we passed.

Not long after and we were approaching the lighthouse. I am not an overly emotional sort of chap but I was hit by a great sense of pride and indeed happiness that Mrs C and I had been able to achieve this together. That said, I’m not actually convinced as to why walking a long way should even be thought of as an achievement? Discovering penicillin, landing on the moon, writing the theme music for Crossroads, these are all achievements. But walking a long way? Anyway, who am I to argue with my own sense of pride and happiness. Deep down, I know this really all stems from being able to do this together with the lovely Mrs C. 

We sat on the rocks below the lighthouse, looking out to sea and empathising why the peregrinos of old considered this place to be the end of the known earth. I have read how peregrinos of more recent times have ritualistically burnt their walking clothes at this spot and swum naked in the sea but aside from the lighting of fires understandably being discouraged by the authorities, does anyone seriously think I would subject my Mexican Lucky tee-shirt to such a fate? And the sea looked a bit cold anyway.

So how to celebrate this auspicious moment? We had a beer! At the site of the lighthouse there is a little bar so we had a little beer and after which we headed back down the AC-445 path towards the town. The rain had attempted a couple of half-hearted comebacks but even the forecast windy conditions didn’t materialise any more than one might expect on such an exposed headland which left us only to enjoy plenty of blue sky and sunshine - and a rainbow! -on the two mile walk back to Finisterre town.

It was around half past five when we got back into town and we started looking for a bar in which to make the most of our celebratory mood. This duly arrived in the shape of El Galeón bar where we sat inside, by the window, looking out to the harbour and sea beyond. We were just finishing our first beers here when who should walk in but the guys I had promised to buy a beer. A promise is a promise and beers were duly purchased. 

Alistair (Ali) and Peter are from Bristol and Antwerp respectively, and met on the road just a day or so back. Ali has walked the Camino Frances from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the Pyrenees and Peter has walked the Portuguese route from Lisbon, for both their first experience of walking the Camino de Santiago. When you’ve done it, you get it! It’s like a secret club and difficult to articulate to others why you’ve done it, what you got out of it and how it changed you. Deep man. We had another beer and then said our goodbyes.

Food was calling and we set off to find a restaurant recommended to us by our accommodation host. Restaurante Os Tres Golpes was an unpretentious bar in a small side street, specialising in fish but pretty damn good when it came to meat too. Fabulous meal. What a way to finish our Camino!

Tomorrow we will be tourists, not peregrinos, so that is it for this Camino blog. I hope that you have enjoyed reading The Adventures of Mrs C. She has enjoyed the main character role. I think.

Day 4 - 25 October - Olveiroa to Cee

As The Eurythmics famously sang:

Here comes the rain again
Slapping on my head through the hood of my poncho
Trickling down my boots like a strange emotion
I want to walk through the rain and wind
Walking through the hills as it does its worst
Hoping I’ll get down to the ocean
Without drowning first

I woke up at seven o’clock and checked outside the window to confirm that it wasn’t raining. It was definitely going to rain but the forecast suggested that we had until around ten o’clock before this scenario was likely to unfold. Accordingly we determined a prompt start to be sensible so after coffee and cake in the large and functional but unattractive bar at Casa Loncho, we set off at twenty to nine still in relative darkness. Almost immediately we were in open moorland leading to forested hills where, despite a heavy morning mist, we enjoyed views across valleys from our heightened viewpoint. 

Surprisingly, we haven’t seen a great deal of wildlife on this adventure, more wild death as it happens with the species leading the way in the we-really-can’t-cope-with-the-heavy-rains stakes being the rather attractive but not good at swimming salamander. Other competitors over the last three days have been frogs and a solitary dead rat. Whilst I rather like frogs, I am afraid that the only good rat is a dead one. 

During the first hour of walking today, we passed through two small hamlets so tiny that the word hamlet probably over-exaggerates their existence. I mention this only in that by the time one reaches the point at which the route splits dependent upon whether you are heading for Finisterre or Muxia, a roadside bar at this point makes it very clear that if you are taking the Finisterre option (we were) then that is it for civilisation of any description until you get to Cee, around eight miles away. 

Also at this juncture, right on cue at ten o’clock, the promised rain made its appearance.

By this time we were around one third of the way through our total near twelve mile day. Initially, the rain was inconvenient only in so much as it is usually preferable that it not be raining. Certainly, yesterday’s fearsome, gale-inspired precipitation was not in danger of being imitated at this stage, but as we ventured further into this eight miles of picturesque nothingness, so the guy in charge of the weather control button gradually kept cranking it towards bad weather max. By the time we reached Ermita San Pedro Mártir, from where one can usually see the sea and the town of Cee, one in fact couldn’t see the sea or see Cee. I could hardly see Mrs C. 

This particular Ermita is where St Peter the Martyr cures your aches and pains by your placing the afflicted body part(s) in the waters of the holy spring. However, by now, we decided that we were wet enough already. Worse was to come however.

We hit the high plain. No forestry to the side of the path to lend at least a modicum of protection from the wind and rain. Obviously this is something that the local authorities are working on because as we battled against the elements, so did a team of hi-viz clad workers busily planting saplings in the moorland to our left hand side as the heavy rain fell, the heavy winds blew and a heavy mist enveloped the lot of us. The path was now more quagmire than footpath, not helped by the four-wheel drive vehicles which had ferried the hi-viz clad workers there in the first place. It would be fair to say that this was a particular low point for Mrs C whose left knee was causing her some not inconsiderable grief.

By contrast, the subsequent not quite so bad conditions came as some relief on the long, three hundred metre descent down into Cee, it being accompanied by more forestry and therefore offering greater shelter from the wind and rain. The unstable cinder path however did just about do for Mrs C’s good spirits and the final half mile to our hotel was taken slowly and with not a few choice words along the way.

Hotel La Marina. What a life saver. Within forty minutes of arrival we were in the hotel bar enjoying a beer and a plate each of their albondigas (meat balls) and chips. Delicious. Thereafter we briefly ventured out to find a lavanderia in which to dry out our wet stuff and then returned to the hotel to plan for our evening sortie.

Cee is a small city, located along the shores of the Ría de Corcubión on the Costa da Morte (coast of death). I’m guessing that most people die of pneumonia. It may not be an attractive small city, whether aesthetically or for reasons of health, but those that do survive it here appear to have a good selection of bars to choose from.

Generally speaking, of an evening, Mrs C and I like to find a bar in which to seek inspiration for the planning of the following day’s route and booking of suitable accommodation. Thereafter, it’s usually a couple more beers and then something to eat. Having already eaten at three o’clock though, we weren’t particularly ravenous when we set off out again three hours later and were happy to find a beer and pizza place just around the corner from the hotel. The rain started hammering down again and we moved inside. Ooh, Barcelona v Shakhtar Donetsk on the TV. Ooh, a free little slice of pizza - don’t mind if I do. Another one of those nice Estrella Galicia 1906 beers please. Ooh, another free little slice of pizza. Another 1906 please. Ooh, a free little seafood wrap. You get the gist. 

Barcelona were two-one up by the time we left, midway through the second half. Tomorrow’s route and accommodation were now all sorted and with the rain having ceased, we returned to our hotel bar for one last beer and - ooh a free little piece of lasagna - whilst seeing out the last few minutes of the Barcelona game before retiring to bed. 

Tomorrow, knees and weather permitting, we should arrive at Finisterre, the traditional final destination for peregrinos on the Camino de Santiago. Finisterre, on the coast of death at the end of the world with more bad weather incoming. What could possibly go wrong?

Day 3 - 24 October - Santa Mariña to Olveiroa

Psalm 23:4

Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil: for thou art with me; thy poncho and thy various wet weather paraphernalia they comfort me.

We awoke to the sound of a howling wind almost drowning out the crowing of a cockerel. It was raining very heavily too. In fact, the cockerel may well have been drowning for real, such was the extent of water falling from the skies. Weather wise, my Mexican Lucky appeared to be running out of steam. 

Confession time. I wore my Mexican Lucky tee-shirt throughout the day on Sunday. And Monday. And I thought “what the heck” when I put it on again this morning. Maybe it would bring positive influence to bear on today’s pretty dire weather forecast? It didn’t.

We prepared for the day appropriately, including the application of kinesiology tape to the back of Mrs C’s right knee. After coffee in the Casa Pepa bar, we hit the road at nine o’clock in theoretical daylight, wet weather geared-up to the eyeballs. Our revised itinerary meant that we only had eight miles to conquer today and we set off in high spirits despite the conditions. 

The rain was relentless, made all the more penetrative by near gale-like winds whipping it across the sodden and partly flooded fields. We were mainly walking along tarmac’d country roads today with an initial steady climb up to Monte Aro before a long gentle descent into Olveiroa. Wet weather gear can only ever be, at best, adequate. When faced with an attack from all directions, it will only keep some of the wet out and within the first half an hour or so we were squelching along in our supposedly waterproof footwear. 

The kinesiology tape appeared to be doing the trick for Mrs C and, whilst we weren’t motoring, we maintained a steady pace except for one particular off-road uphill where the rain and soft scree surface demanded nothing more than second gear progress.

The landscape has changed from a couple of days back with forests replaced by rolling countryside, agriculture and livestock, predominantly cows. Farms of various sizes, with accompanying aromas, are everywhere. It may not be as attractive as that which came before but it remains a joy to be part of it, even if it was a very wet joy today.

We were not on the road for much more than three hours in total but the wind saved its most challenging gusts for the final third of the journey. The wind buffeted us about to the extent that we were at times staggering as opposed to walking. Mrs C’s flapping poncho slapped me in the face twice and my poncho kept blowing up from behind and over my head thus leaving my rearguard exposed (rather like Mrs C yesterday). The now irreplaceable and trusty walking staff also whacked me on the ankle a couple of times, entirely accidentally Mrs C assured me. 

We arrived at our accommodation Casa Loncho in Olveiroa not long after midday, wet and bedraggled but nonetheless still in good spirits. Our private room is way and above the best of the trip so far and afforded us sufficient space to remove all wet stuff, hang it up to dry, put on our dry stuff and then head to the bar for a coffee and bite to eat. The bar itself is large and functional but unattractive, certainly in terms of a prospective venue in which to spend a few hours later on. We retired to our room and had a kip whilst the weather outside perversely took a modest turn for the better. 

By five o’clock we were ready to explore Olveiroa which, as it turns out, warrants about ten minutes of exploration if you do it once and then do it a second time in the hope that you might have missed something the first time round. As with so many of the villages in this part of Galicia, Olveiroa is not much more than a collection of stone buildings, some magnificently restored whilst others dilapidated, which add up to not much more than a church, farm buildings, large horreos and accommodation/ bars to meet the needs of the Camino peregrinos. Google maps had alerted me to Cafe Bar O Peregrino which I was hanging my hat on, not really wanting to contemplate spending the evening at our large and functional but unattractive bar at Casa Loncho. Sadly, Cafe Bar O Peregrino was able only to match the latter of these three features which saw us moving swiftly on after just the one beer. Was I really all out of Mexican Lucky? 

No!

My (by now) washed and dried Mexican Lucky tee-shirt was back in the game and working its magic. Bar As Pias was just down the road. Someone has spent a lot of money converting this traditional stone building into a fabulous little bar with accommodation. We plonked ourselves down by the window and within minutes were chatting to Alex and Laura, two young ladies from Australia and Switzerland respectively, who have been walking the Camino Frances route and now looking to arrive in Finisterre by close of business tomorrow. By the time they got up to leave and return to a certain large and functional but unattractive bar elsewhere in the village, Mrs C and I had determined that we should stay put and try out the food at As Pias. We were not disappointed. My Galician Stew had potential to bring on more meat sweats, such was the generosity of the serving. By the time we got up to leave, all was good with the world even if it had started raining again.

Tomorrow we head for the town of Cee on the Galician coast,  in theory another relatively easy day’s walking even though more rain is forecast but we will of course have Mexican Lucky on our side. Thank goodness Mrs C didn’t go for the Sheffield Wednesday shirt option.