Friday, June 2, 2023

Wednesday - You've Got Me Wondering

When your football team loses four nil in the first leg of a play-off semi-final, the last thing you expect to be doing sixteen days later is heading off to Wembley for the final. But that was me, plus around forty six thousand other Sheffield Wednesday supporters, on 28 and 29 May. 


Luton bound, courtesy of Ryanair

Following (officially) the greatest comeback in the history of the English football league play-offs - not that I had been able to witness any of it from the middle of nowhere in Spain - I only had a few days to sort out the logistics of actually getting to Wembley. But I had to be there. No question. It ain’t every day that your team plays at Wembley, not even if you’re a fan of the glory hunter variety. So it was that I flew out from Murcia International airport in Spain on a late flight to Luton airport on the Sunday night, landing at around quarter past eleven.


Dad, you’re too old to be kipping in airports was the considered opinion of daughters Emily and Ellie, backed up by Mrs C. To be fair, one of my many life rules and beliefs is that girls grow up into women whereas boys grow up into big boys and when it comes to certain things in life, particularly football and beer related, my generally logical thinking processes, honed over sixty four years, tend to lose out to big boy bravado. Of course I can kip in the airport. Two nights running. I’ve just spent two weeks slumming it in hostel dormitories, hotel rooms and a very nice Casa Rural thank you very much. What’s the point in paying for a hotel when I won’t get there until midnight and I’ll want to be up bright and early in the morning anyway?

The floor did me for the first three hours.


I wandered around the airport for half an hour or so checking the place out for potential get-me-head-down opportunities. Hmm, it’s a busy airport this Luton airport as it happens. However, with no more flights out until around five thirty the next morning, the check-in desks were now unmanned and I found a spare bit of floor on a near empty corridor just around the corner from the check-in hall. The temperature in the airport building was comfortable enough although the flooring had been specially shipped in from Lapland. Hey ho. What’s a couple of cold butt cheeks in the overall scheme of a Wembley weekend.


I felt sorry for the nice lady sat behind a desk at the far end of my corridor with the signage Oversized Baggage hanging above her head. Bit harsh I felt.


The floor did me for three hours, then an hour perched on a bench seat to revive said butt cheeks and, finally, a four a.m. coffee at Pret followed by a comfortable ninety minutes laid out on their nice, padded bench seats. Six o’clock in the morning and I’m ready for action!


Travel options investigated, I caught the shuttle to Luton Airport Parkway mainline railway station where I had fifteen minutes to wait for my seven o’clock Thameslink train to Kings Cross St Pancras. During this wait, it dawned on me that it was actually bloody cold and my shorts plus Wednesday top combo might have been okay for Spain, and even for Luton airport, but at ten to seven in the morning on the platform at Luton Airport Parkway mainline railway station it was now proving less than adequate. A quick assessment of my surroundings garnered that I was the only person on any of the platforms so I performed a superman-like transformation, substituting a perspex shelter for a phone box, and emerged clad in jeans and puffa jacket albeit, sadly, no cape. But at least I was now truly ready for the action.


The Thameslink train deposited me at Kings Cross St Pancras station. There was blue and white everywhere. I got talking to father and son Wednesdayites who had travelled down from Sheffield on a five a.m. train (the seven a.m. train already being fully booked) and we headed for the Barrel Vault, a Wetherspoons pub, for breakfast washed down with the first pint of the day which, for me, was an American Pale Ale. The place was full of Wednesday fans. I hadn’t yet seen a single red Barnsley shirt anywhere.


Conscious that eight in the morning was pretty early, even for me, to start drinking I left it at just the one pint and strolled up to Euston where I would later be meeting my eldest daughter Emily off the Preston train. I had also planned to meet up with my good mate Darren from Southend who was travelling into London with Gillian, another long-standing friend and Southend-based Wednesday fan with whom I used to travel to games with the London Owls supporters group over forty years ago. 


The Royal George pub seemed to fit the bill perfectly. It was literally just outside Euston and due to open at ten o’clock. I sat outside, chatting to four more Wednesday fans, as opening time approached. Emily was due in to Euston at ten past ten so I made do with a quick Jamesons, once the pub had opened, before heading back into the station. Like clockwork, Ems and I were in the pub five minutes later and Darren and Gillian had also arrived. Thirteen quid though for a pint of Greene King IPA and a craft equivalent seemed a bit steep so we didn’t linger beyond these first drinks and instead decided to take the tube to Preston Road, one station beyond Wembley Park, where we knew some of the latter day London Owls were planning to meet at The Preston pub. We had also, by now, had our first sighting of a few lesser spotted Barnsley fans, all of whom appeared to be decent guys and gals with the requisite number of fingers despite rumours to the contrary. 


Gillian, bless her, is a bit of a London Owls legend. She is also very, very tiny. And forty years plus of supporting The Owls takes its toll as recognised by the kindly person who gave up their seat on the tube so that Gillian could sit down. Cue much amusement on my part.

Gillian looks like she has been photo-shopped on to this
image.There is no truth in the rumour that we had to do
this because she was too tiny to get her in the picture
otherwise. No truth in this rumour whatsoever. Honestly.   

The Preston pub is a nice, roomy pub with a big beer garden and now that the London temperatures were somewhat more agreeable than those experienced at Luton Airport Parkway earlier in the day, it was in the garden where most of the Wednesday fans had parked up. I was beginning to regret my Superman transformation from earlier in the day now that my shorts were packed away in temporary storage, along with the other contents of my rucksack, back at the Exmouth Arms in Euston. I consoled myself with a pint of Adnams Secret Springs tropical pale ale which was a new one on me and it was bloody lovely, the best pint of the day in fact. 



It was good to catch up with one or two familiar faces from long years past including Paul Beckett, Colin Grant and Ian Colley. Gillian knew way more faces than I did which was just as well because when she wasn't chatting to her London Owls mates, she was busy regaling Ems with some of my less finer moments as a younger, single chap in Southend. I consoled myself with another pint of the Adnams Secret Springs tropical pale ale which continued to be bloody lovely.


We left The Preston at one o'clock and headed back to the tube station via the chippy. The train to Wembley Park duly arrived and, once again, a kindly person (a different kindly person this time) offered up their seat to my miniature friend. Courtesy of my two pale ales, I found this ridiculously amusing. I may be sixty four but, thankfully, nobody seems inclined to take pity on me in similar vein just yet. Anyway, we arrived at Wembley Park and joined the throng of blue and white heading up Olympic Way towards the stadium. Generally speaking, the build-up to a Wembley final is a joyous occasion in its own right, never mind that there's a football match to be played at the end of it, but at some stage along Olympic Way it suddenly dawns on you that the football match is actually why you're there and the prospect of emerging as the eventual loser is simply too painful to contemplate. Surely, having won through to Wembley with the greatest comeback of all time, the fates must be on our side this time round?


Ems and I weren't among the forty four thousand who had bought their match ticket through the club. We had been too far down the priority list to make that particular cut so we had managed to obtain tickets through the wider EFL (English Football League) family. Upon entering the stadium, the real ale bar did not go unnoticed and so we treated ourselves to a pint and a half of Courage Best between us and even managed some change out of a tenner. We supped up and then went to find our sixty-two quid seats. Wow! Block G, row 13 offering a great view of the pitch, pretty much level with the penalty spot, surrounded by fellow Wednesdayites and fully in the sunshine. I mean fully in the sunshine. Oh for my shorts back at Euston. 


Possibly not a Wednesdayite was the employee of Brent Council, sat two rows behind us, dressed from head to foot in heavy black clothing, with head scarf, mask and shades, a get-up that could have possibly served me well on the floor at Luton airport the night before but most definitely not suitable for the sunny side of Wembley stadium in which we were sat. Heavy black clothing, shorts or whatever, the temperatures were such that dehydration and heat exhaustion were real possibilities in our corner of the stadium so fingers crossed that the match wasn't going to go into extra time. Which of course it did.


The fates did appear to want to be on Wednesday's side. Barnsley had a player sent off early in the second half but not before Wednesday had survived a penalty appeal which could easily have gone the other way. I felt we were marginally the better side in the first half but Barnsley, once down to ten men, were better than us in the second half albeit we created more chances. The match went into extra time and Wednesday played with more control than hitherto, creating the bulk of the opportunities although the best chance in the first fifteen minutes fell to Barnsley but their player made a complete hash of his shot and will forever be known as Mr Sitter. Second half of extra time and Wednesday were upping the ante without ever looking really convincing until a smart move saw our midfielder Will Vaulks lash the ball into the net from just outside the penalty area. Bedlam ensued. I am jumping up and down like a demented idiot, completely missing the fact that the linesman has his flag up and the effort is ruled out for offside. Noooooooo! Surely we're not going to cock this up. A one-man advantage for seventy minutes and the match is heading to penalties. I feel sick to the stomach at this prospect. Three minutes of injury time are added to the final period. Wednesday are huffing and puffing to find that one last chance. With thirty seconds to go, the ball is played to our goalkeeper Cam Dawson and he humps the ball up-field. The ball is headed down to Fisayo Dele-Bashiru who plays the ball forward to Lee Gregory. Instead of playing the ball back to Dele-Bashiru, Gregory turns towards goal and looks to go past the defender. He stops, turns again and creates a yard of space for himself as he picks out a cross into space between the six yard box and the penalty spot. Our striker Josh Windass is nowhere near the the destination of Gregory's cross but he has seen it coming and charges into the area, launching himself into a diving header, the pace on which is too much for Barnsley's man-of-the-match keeper Harry Istead who can only get sufficient glove on it to help it into the net. There are three seconds of injury time left as the ball hits the back of the net. Bedlam does not cover it.


This is the stuff of football fantasy. A winning goal with the last kick of the match. At Wembley stadium. Forty six thousand Wednesday fans are jumping up and down like demented idiots and this time there is no offside flag to spoil the party. The absolute best way to win a football match. The absolute worst way to lose one. Everyone in the stadium knows that that’s it. Match won and lost. Barnsley are allowed the right to kick-off but immediately the ball is played the referee blows the whistle for full time. In over fifty years of following this club, I can tell you that this sort of thing does not happen to Sheffield Wednesday, yet here I am in disbelief, laughing, crying, jumping and hugging Emily all at the same time. The old chap (about my age probably) next to Emily joins in and the three of us form a laughing, crying, jumping, hugging threesome. All around us, the Wednesday fans are in a similar state of delirium. Probably not so our friend from Brent Council though. She had melted by now and all that remained was a pile of heavy black clothing, head scarf, mask, a pair of shades and a pair of shoes in a small puddle on the floor. 


The Barnsley fans were also melting away. There is little consolation in knowing that your team has played well but lost. The joyous occasion of the day is well and truly - and in this case abruptly - ended and the immediate priority is to get away from the scene of defeat as quickly as possible. If I was to sum up the day from a Barnsley viewpoint, I would have to conclude that the fates were against them. And let’s face it, what would be the point of the greatest comeback in the history of the English football league play-offs if you didn’t go on to win the final with the last kick of the match? This was always going to be Wednesday’s final.


The celebrations on and off the pitch ensured that the Barnsley fans had a half an hour head start to make good their getaway. Ems and I lingered in the stadium until the last of the Wednesday team had disappeared off the pitch before we joined the sea of blue and white heading back up Olympic Way to Wembley Park station. We met up again with Darren and Gillian at a pre-arranged meeting point and continued on to the tube station where we squeezed into the train with our fellow Wednesdayites to head back into central London. No chance of a seat on this one I joked but, yet again, I had reckoned without the ability of my very tiny friend to garner sympathetic gestures and, yet again, a (third of the day) kindly person offered up their seat to her. Hilarious.


By now, we were also in the company of Darren’s old Southend schoolmate Paul and his son Kai, both of whom were bitten by the Wednesday bug having previously gone to matches with Darren. The Sheffield Wednesday Southend Supporters Club appears to be going from strength to strength.


We decided to head to The Sir John Oldcastle in Farringdon, another Wetherspoons pub, although Ems had a seven thirty train to catch back to Preston so I temporarily left the Southend Owls contingent and made sure that Ems caught her train. I then walked to the Exmouth Arms to retrieve my rucksack and I really wish I had taken a bit more notice of the place when depositing said rucksack earlier in the day. Titanic Plum Porter on hand pump. Ooh, now that would have been tempting but I had promised I wouldn’t be far behind on the way to Farringdon so, slightly reluctantly, I swerved this potential treat and headed back to Euston Square underground station. London was still swarming with Wednesday fans. Every pub I passed had blue and white clad punters celebrating our Wembley victory which served only to hasten my appetite to do same. Ten minutes later and I was in Farringdon with a pint of American Pale Ale to quench this desire. Strangely we must have been all footballed-out because our football chat gave way to all sorts of this-is-what’s-wrong-with-the-world type of nonsense but, sensibly, Darren concentrated on his Stowford Press cider. 


It was thirty years ago when Gillian first introduced Mrs C and I to Darren and despite the age gap (Darren is fourteen years younger than me) we hit it off right away. My travelling days with the London Owls had been replaced by the car, driving direct from Southend, and Darren accompanied us and then (post children) just me to numerous matches around the country. Now that I live in Burnley and spend a lot of my time in Spain, we don’t really get much chance to see each other but when we do meet up, it’s as if it’s about a week since the last time. He’s a good lad.


Aside from the football, it was great meeting up again with Darren and Gillian after so long but of course it is the football, specifically Sheffield Wednesday football club, which unites us. We took a leaf out of Darren’s book and stopped talking world-related nonsense and got another pint in and back on to the footie chat. Before we knew it, Paul and Kai had to set off for home and Darren, Gillian and myself had one more for t’road before heading off in our respective directions, mine of course being Luton airport.


Kings Cross St Pancras station is a very confusing place at nearly ten in the evening when you’ve just finished the day’s celebrations with a large Jamesons. Fortunately, the staff member I spoke to knew exactly where I needed to be. He was an Everton fan as it turned out, and very happy/ relieved that his side had avoided relegation from the Premier League the previous day. Living in Burnley as I do, I told him that we all love Sean Dyche up there and our three minute chat, congratulating each other on our teams’ achievements over that weekend, was like a brief romantic entanglement; unexpected, enjoyable and over before you know it. I was clearly fading rather quickly.


The ten fifteen train to Corby set off to the echoes of Wednesday songs elsewhere in the station. Twenty two minutes later I was back at Luton Airport Parkway station, then on to the shuttle back to the airport itself. It wasn’t late but I was cream-crackered and there was little doubt that I would sleep tonight, whatever my resting place circumstances. In the event, I managed a comfortable ninety minutes on the nice, padded bench seats at Pret before another ninety minutes on the floor by Arrivals, staring up at the arse of a life-sized model baby elephant. At around half past three I went through security into the Departures lounge and wandered all the way to Gate number 1 where a slatted wood sofa proved to be rather more comfortable than it looked. This provided a good final sixty minutes of kip before my flight departure at Gate number 43 was confirmed. 


I was back home, at our apartment in Spain, by around half past ten in the morning, local time. I spent most of Tuesday re-living the experiences of the previous day via Twitter before crashing out at half past eight and remaining crashed out for the next eleven and a half hours. Sad to admit as a sixty-four year old but Sheffield Wednesday has been a life-long obsession for me and with way, way more lows than highs over the years. But yesterday was as good as it gets. And you need to have experienced the lows in order to truly appreciate the highs. To do so with my lovely daughter Emily and my friends of many years Darren and Gillian was truly special. 

Football eh? 

Monday, May 22, 2023

Day 15 - 21 May - Aldea Picaraña to Santiago de Compostela

As Elton John famously sang:

Hey chaps, hold it tight together
We’re on the verge of something
And it’s gonna last forever
We'll kill the fatted calf tonight of the caliphate
Replace it with the way of St James and it’ll be reyt

Drink a bene, bene, bene ‘n hot
Bene, bene, bene, bene, bene, bene, bene ‘n hot

A chilly start with a beautiful, slightly misty blue sky was beckoning as I was unpegging and folding up the team laundry that had been drying overnight. I am always first up in the mornings. Andrea says that my shuffling about is like a gradual wake-up call whereas Mick reckons that I’m a coughing, spluttering, noisy old git.

A rare treat; the ability to make oneself a cup of tea when staying in accommodation in Spain.

Our last day on Camino was starting well and we weren’t even out of the door yet. That particular moment arrived at just after eight o’clock and we were off. A mere ten miles of walking ahead of us.

We were soon on woodland paths, pleasant options to keep us hidden from the converging transport arteries one would expect when nearing any large city. The initial chill of the day enabled us to make good progress, despite all being mainly uphill, and we didn’t stop for coffee until reaching dormitory town Milladoiro around two hours later. That was it, journey pretty much broken by ten o’clock. We set off once more. Across the road. Short downhill path. Short uphill path and…………there it was, the city of Santiago de Compostela with the spires of its cathedral prominent amongst the city sprawl before us. Only around two miles away for a crow but four miles for us passing under and over, through and around. With two of these last four miles under our belt, we then caught up with Tim and Laurence and with whom we then walked into the city itself. 

Santiago, like many Spanish cities, can be a bit of a maze at the centre. Throw in a big cycling event which leads to entrance roads being closed and that adds to the fun. Despite having entered the city from the south, we arrived at Praza do Obradoiro, to gaze up at the cathedral, via the same entrance, same beggar woman and same bagpiper as last year. It is a delight to witness the excitement of the new arrivals as they reach the square and soak it all in.

This time round, it hadn’t been our intention to queue for our Compostela (official certificate of completion) so, after taking the usual pictures we made arrangements to meet up later with Tim and Laurence and the four of us set forth to find a nice location for drinks which we did, via several hundred steps (sorry about that team), in the garden of the Hotel Costa Vella. Mick and I treated ourselves to bottles of 1906 and the girls vino tinto and blanco. It was nice and comfortable there so we didn’t bother moving and, hey presto, another two rounds of drinks later it was time to go find our accommodation. When booking said accommodation, I knew that it was going to be close to the cathedral but I hadn’t realised quite how close. As it transpired, we were staying almost opposite the Michelin restaurant Casa Marcelo where Mrs C and I had dined with Michael from Switzerland, upon completing our Camino, last year. It also happens to be our Mick’s favourite street in Santiago (something to do with the Hortas Lavanderia laundry - he’s strange) so everyone was happy. 

St James, as he would look today


Later on, at around six o’clock, we ventured out. Mick and I had a beer sat outside Agarimo bar whilst the girls did a bit of window shopping and then we all set up at Sala Riquela, where Tim and Laurence joined us, sitting outside in the sunshine. My first beer of choice was the 1906 Red but at 8% it’s definitely not one for a session so, in another throwback to last year, I then partook of a bottle of Estrella Galicia’s sin gluten beer which I last enjoyed when at Casa Marcelo. From there we moved on to find food which we did in a delightfully tatty little place (definitely not Casa Marcelo) which was very busy and very much in the spirit of the Camino with groups of friends breaking bread together, some perhaps for the last time. It was vino tinto time and we spent a last hour in the company of Tim and Laurence before bidding our fond farewells.

The four of us - the four musketeers - had to finish the night properly. Restaurant and cafe bar Casa Paredes is a bar that most pilgrims will recognise, it being situated down the steps from the cathedral and Parador hotel and where you turn right to head to the Pilgrims’ Office. It also happens to be at the top of our street, about seventy yards up from our apartment. We entered. It wasn’t overly busy but we didn’t want food so we weren’t priority punters. I had a word. Immediately, some poor schmuck on his own was relocated mid-drink to make room for us. The ceremony began. Four cafe con leches. Two tarta santiagos. And two Benedictines.

Many of you reading this will not be aware of the history between Burnley (our home town) and Benedictine, a herbal liquor made in France. Just google Benedictine with Burnley Miners to find out more. In Burnley it is typically taken with hot water, a combination known locally as Bene 'n' hotHowever, few if any are aware of the history of this drink as it relates to our St James. If you have read my book (who hasn’t?), you will know that following the verification of his remains some eight hundred years after his death, our hero appeared on a milk white charger to lead the outnumbered christian forces to victory against the muslim caliphate in the Battle of Clavijo. Initially confused and terrified by the appearance of the apparition, St James ordered that every man be served with a “Bene 'n' hot” to steady their nerves, with the promise of more of the same once they had driven their foe “down the road”. This gave rise to the original version of the immortal Musketeer cry, and still heard in Burnley to this day, of “all for one and one for t’road”.

A wonderful way to finish our Camino. Tomorrow we say goodbye to Mick and Andrea. We have loved their company and grateful, on this occasion, not to have walked just the two of us. That’s it folks. Buen Camino!


Sunday, May 21, 2023

Day 14 - 20 May - Vilanova de Arousa to Aldea Picaraña

As Promiscua, the provocative pepper from Panama, probably sang:

Don't cha wish your pepper was hot like me?Don't cha wish your pepper was a freak like me?Don't cha?

No alarm necessary. No early start. Check-out by twelve noon if required. And why? Because we were taking the boat to Padrón on a one o’clock, in the afternoon, departure time.

The open sea that is the Atlantic has become the Bay of Arousa by the time it reaches Vilanova de Arousa and this later becomes the Rio Ulla which passes through Padrón. This is the route by which the remains (not sure if his head was included) of our hero St James found their way to Galicia after his execution and martyrdom. I think I am right in saying that Padrón was the last place on the Iberian peninsula where he preached before that fateful decision to return home. Anyway, whether this last bit is true (or indeed any of it), St James has a lot of history with Padrón and we were looking forward to getting there. 

The boat trip was like most boat trips that I have ever been on in that it sounds like a good idea but it can go on a bit, get very cold and you’re glad to get off. This boat trip was a good idea because it saved us a long, twenty two mile trudge but one hour and forty minutes was quite long enough thank you and I was glad I had put my longs on and a warm jacket. 

Once disembarked, we walked the one mile into Padrón for a little explore. I find Spanish towns and cities generally fascinating with grand central squares, historic buildings and atmosphere but Padrón was rather lacking. Maybe that’s why St James packed in his Iberian tour way back when if this was the last place where he tried to convert a few souls? If only they had shown a bit more interest.

So, whilst a little disappointed with this particular aspect of Padrón, we had another reason to be here……..Padrón peppers.

Some are hot, and some are not

Padrón peppers can be eaten raw but are generally fried in olive oil, until wilted, and served with a generous sprinkling of sea salt. They are generally mild in taste but can produce the occasional extremely hot out-rider. This apparent quality has led to the popular Galician aphorism Os pementos de Padrón, uns pican e outros non which rather jauntily translates to Padrón peppers, some are hot and some are not.

We had a plateful between us. Between this and prior experience with Padrón peppers which, I must say, I do enjoy, I think a more accurate strap line would read Padrón peppers, not hot.

We enjoyed our peppers nonetheless, washed down with a couple of bottles of Estrella Galicia at bodega/ taperia O Secrets do Vino where they looked after us very well and were particularly pleased that we gave the peppers the thumbs up. But now we actually had some walking to do and it was already four o’clock. Still, we didn’t have too far to go, just over six miles which would likely take between two and three hours depending on road conditions. 

Road conditions were boring to start with and very warm but boring turned to actually quite pleasant by the time we were nearing our destination. However, I shaved my head this morning and rather like Samson of bible fame, I found my strength had deserted me. Now, coincidence or what but it was on this day last year that Mrs C and I walked into Villafranca del Bierzo on the Camino Frances and that was my lowest, weakest, most pathetic day of the whole Camino.

Maybe 20 May next year will be a good day to stay in bed?

We have come up trumps with our accommodation tonight, it being a two bed, small house in the middle of nowhere which is fast becoming a theme. Our lovely hostess brought us fresh eggs with which omelette was later conjured up by the girls. Not one of us fancied moving away from the place in favour of a nearby bar. In fact, I reckon had we had a bar at the bottom of the garden we may still have struggled to summon up the effort to move from where we were.

So, our final night on Camino. We reach Santiago tomorrow although how I’m going to cope with ten miles is anybody’s guess. On the plus side I’m sure that Andrea would give me a piggy back if I asked her. She is too nice.


Saturday, May 20, 2023

Day 13 - 19 May - Silvan to Vilanova de Arousa

As nice people everywhere are prone to sing:

Kumbaya my Lord, kumbayaKumbaya my Lord, kumbayaKumbaya my Lord, kumbayaWhy’s your mate still sat outside?

Be gone, foul beast! Whatever it was that had been ailing me, it was on the move. Gravity is a powerful force. Whilst I was never more than vaguely off colour, I had my demon on the run and today proved a rarity in that I finished the fifteen miles in better fettle than I started it.

We were promised hills, streams and waterfalls on the Variante Espiritual route and our first few miles today ain’t called the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua (route of the stone and the water) for nothing. Through woodland paths alongside rushing streams, the route is littered with long since abandoned stone buildings and infrastructure of the old mills used to grind cereals. It certainly made for a beautiful first two hours to the day, made all the better as it was all downhill.

We stopped for coffee at a nice, ramshackle little set-up before Barrantes, Chiringo de Concha, with large garden space where the nice lady threw in a bit of toast, cake and tortilla for good measure. We were making good progress and continued along a pleasant riverside path, past cultivated fields and vineyards. 

Another hour or so further on, we stopped at the immaculate Hostal O Legado de Ramira in Pontearnelas where they made us a proper, hot coffee, not one of those luke warm efforts which have been rather too prevalent on this Camino. It was here too where my upward trend began to kick-in in earnest. I was feeling a bit light-headed, a sure sign of dehydration. Considering that I get most of my water intake from beer, this all began to make absolute sense because I hadn’t had any beer yesterday. So, with a short term diet of sugary cakes (purloined from breakfast this morning) and emergency water (i.e. real water), I reckoned this could be the key to recovery. 

Pontearnelas was the half-way point in our day, distance wise, and we continued from there along mainly quiet roads and paths with just the one main incline to contend with and from there it was literally downhill all the way for us and figuratively uphill all the way for me. 

Further spiritual uplift was on offer at the small chapel we came to in Mouzo where a very nice English guy invited us in to get a stamp in our credencials. I have previously fessed up to my discomfort when in church buildings generally so, despite my sense that this chap was genuinely a good’un, I declined the opportunity although Mrs C, Mick and Andrea all accepted. The next thing on offer was then a “song to guide you all on your way”. Hmm. Good decision Cookie boy. 

We decided that our next refreshment stop should wait until we reached the beach route into Vilanova de Arousa, our destination for the night, which meant a good two hours’ work to make the necessary progress. At last, we reached the sea, turning right to head up the coastal path, passing under the road bridge that takes traffic to the Isla de Arousa, and then onward looking for somewhere suitable. Our reward was Bar As Carballas at Praia Terron where the guy serving us was wearing a Celta Vigo shirt. That immediately facilitated mention of Carlos Carvalhal and Sheffield Wednesday whereupon he brought up, on his phone, a Spanish sports report on last night’s football miracle. Sheffield Wednesday. Massive eh?



We then progressed the final mile up the beautiful coastline before crossing the pedestrian bridge into Vilanova de Arousa which means village of the aroused. To be honest, I was expecting to see all the blokes doing impressions of tripods but that didn’t seem to be the case. Maybe it doesn’t means village of the aroused after all?

We checked into our hotel at four o’clock and didn’t emerge for play-time until seven. Had sugary cakes and emergency water done the trick? Yes!

Three Estrella Galicias and a bottle of Alhambra later, the foul beast had been banished. Just as well. Tomorrow we have a one hour forty minute, fast boat, trip to look forward to. In the meantime, sleep. A good sleep.

Friday, May 19, 2023

Day 12 - 18 May - Pontevedra to Silvan

As thirty thousand Sheffield Wednesday fans are singing, right now:

Qué será, seráWhatever will be, will beWe’re going to Wem-ber-ley

All for one and one for all. Is how I ended yesterday’s blog. Obviously, I failed to bargain for our spirited, impressionable and swashbuckling musketeer D’Artagnan.

Today we were planning to pick up the optional Variante Espiritual route which promises hills, streams and waterfalls. We departed Pontevedra on the Ponte do Burgo bridge, over the Rio Lérez, heading in a generally north easterly direction towards the town of Combarro which, if you look at it on a map, is in a generally north westerly direction. So, the long way round which took us over the VG-4.8 road, through villages, along a woodland path, back alongside the VG-4.8 road heading into Combarro, then along the coastline for another mile or so until we reached the town itself. The old fishing town is stunning in appearance, albeit obviously geared up for tourists with its bars, restaurants and gift shops. Every property on the seafront has its own Hórreo, sometimes more than one, being the traditional Galician wheat stores. One suspects that many, if not most, of the stone Hórreo’s on display nowadays were built more for ornamental than practical purposes. Nonetheless they make for very attractive tourist bait.



So, five miles in to a total fourteen mile day, this was where our contingency plan demanded a decision. Were we to relax in this beautiful town of Combarro for a couple of hours before taking a taxi to the Monasterio de Santa María de Armentera, only one mile shy of our accommodation in the middle-of-nowhere Silvan? Or do we walk the six miles to the Monasterio, all uphill including major steep bits? I really wasn’t feeling it. I told Andrea that I was going to vote the taxi option, partly because I knew she would have gone along with the rest of us had we all wanted to walk, but also because I needed an ally too. 

All for one and one for all! Mick opted to stay with his missus even though I think he would otherwise have chosen to walk. D’Artagnan? Oh the youth and feistiness of our young companion.

I’m bloody walking!

We swapped phones (mine has GPS). D’Artagnan was on her way. And so nearly was her phone as I left it in a bar. Half an hour later when that realisation dawned on me, my cognitive capabilities were put to the test and they came up trumps with phone safely retrieved.

Lightened of the load of her rucksack, D’Artagnan completed this feat in an impressive two hours. In the meantime, the rest of us took opportunity to relax in the sunshine. Whilst Mick did indeed do the decent thing and enjoyed three bottles of 1906 cerveza during this period, I pathetically stuck to Aquarius Lemon all day. I have read that Aquarius Lemon is infused with zinc which contributes to normal cognitive function, so I probably have Aquarius to thank for the speedy recovery of the abandoned phone, if not for my losing it in the first place.

At the time we began to contemplate calling for a taxi, D’Artagnan messaged to say that she had already arrived at the Monasterio so we made arrangements post haste to join her there. Outside the Monasterio is a bar where we took some lunch, Mick had another 1906 and I didn’t. Thereafter it was only a twenty minute walk to our luxurious accommodation in Silvan which I think must be Spanish for nowhere. We have young bamboo growing on our terrace so D'Artagnan is at least temporarily usurped by Dick Van Dyke.

Apparently we didn’t miss out on streams and waterfalls so maybe we still have that to come tomorrow. We have fifteen miles ahead of us and none of us want to miss out on that. Especially D’Artagnan.

We have been incredibly lucky with the weather so far on our Camino. I suspect that at least part of my current malaise is having had too much sun. Despite a generous dollop of Factor 50 on my shiny bonce every morning and a propensity for spending much of my time in Spain at other times of the year, I seem to have taken on a lot of sun and acquired an all-over body tan, even through my tee-shirts. When one has a troubled night’s sleep, all sorts of weird stuff can go through your head. Last night, the words that kept repeating in my sub-conscious were spontaneous combustion, spontaneous combustion. I guess I must have been pretty hot.

And finally, unlike last year whilst on Camino, my football team apparently showed a bit of all for one and one for all themselves tonight in turning around a four goal, first leg deficit from the League 1 play-off semi-final to qualify for the Wembley final. This sort of thing doesn’t happen to Sheffield Wednesday and I probably need to get more Aquarius Lemon inside me as I am seriously doubting my cognitive function here. Was it all simply more confused nocturnal ramblings or are we really in Ted Lasso territory? If this does indeed turn out to be true then the phrase greatest comeback since Lazarus will be replaced by doing a Sheffield Wednesday and I will need to pick up my Camino pace if I want to sort out a trip to Wembley.



Thursday, May 18, 2023

Day 11 - 17 May - Redondela to Pontevedra

As Squeeze famously sang:

Now Andrea’s doneAnd I'm out on my feetA wee bit of sunstrokeMeans nothing to meAshley has goneBut a sore toe persistsWith limbs full of stiffnessAnd coffee in bed

Not yet nine o’clock and I am sat in bed drinking coffee and eating cake. The life of the idle rich eh!

Truth be told I haven’t been in tip top form for the last three days although that fact has only really dawned on me earlier today. With hindsight, all this walking in a generally northerly direction has meant that I have had a bit too much sun to the back of my neck and left me just a fraction off peak Cookie physical condition. To rectify I have today been wearing my peak cap back to front which makes me look like a complete dick or, even worse, Jurgen Klopp. But it seems to have done the trick and I am hoping for a first really good night’s sleep in four to get me back on the straight and narrow.

Andrea has struggled today. Not my man-flu-esque, I’m-feeling-a-bit-off-colour type of thing, but a dodgy tummy from the off which I have put down to that bar yesterday which didn’t sell wine. I have a suspicion that the bottle of water she drank instead of a vino blanco has somehow compromised the delicate balance of minerals which she has thus far maintained and hitherto ensured non-dodgy tummy. We endurance athletes have to be careful.

The guidebook suggested that we had a twelve mile day ahead of us today but we were intending to take some alternative routes to keep us off busy roads which, at the very least, would slow us down, if not add to the distance. Accordingly we hit the road at eight o’clock and headed north out of Redondela taking the optional coastal route from nearby Cesantes. All the way up to the town of Arcade, two to three miles away, the spectacular coast line looks out to the Ria de Vigo which has the appearance of a small sea. The views are sensational. We even did a bit of beach walking and, for the first time on this Camino, got some good shadow images.


All this while, Andrea was struggling but not prepared to stop walking. We will look after her carefully over the next couple of days.

For those of you with long(ish) memories, Ashley appears to have jumped ship, we think probably somewhere in Portugal. At least one of us is walking with a renewed spring in their step.

Mick’s poorly little toe from way back is still Mick’s poorly little toe a week or so later. I have offered to perform an amputation if it helps.

Mrs C remains as fit as the proverbial flea. I think it must be all the wild bamboo everywhere which sees her morph into Dick Van Dyke on regular occasions throughout the day.

We stopped at a coffee shop in Arcade where, in addition to our coffees, we were treated to a plate full of complementary cakes (which I am finishing off now).

From Arcade, we crossed the stone bridge over the Rio Verdudo into Ponte Nova where we then began a short, steep ascent up to Alto de Canicouva, peaking at around one hundred and forty metres above sea level. With the sun beating down, the shade afforded by the eucalyptus forests was welcome, allowing me to dispense with the Jurgen Klopp impression for much of the time. We took regular rest stops, ostensibly for Andrea but we all needed them. Three miles out of  Pontevedra, we found bar Casa Fermin where I ordered, I am embarrassed to say, an Aquarius soft drink. One more hour and we were on the outskirts of Pontevedra but it transpired that we still had another mile to our accommodation in the old town, which in the event turned out to be a rather quirky apartment. We were all gasping when bar/restaurant Novo Sozo came into view. This time I did man-up and ordered an Estrella Galicia. Most unexpectedly, we were treated to four bowls of a chickpea stew which was just perfect. They are so generous these Galician bar owners. 

We checked into our quirky digs at around four o’clock. We all had a kip but Andrea has stayed kipping all night so it was just Mrs C, Mick and myself who set out to explore the town a couple of hours later. We had a couple of beers at Dulce de Leche Alameda and another one at the imaginatively named Disc Burgers. But that was me then done. My brave boy pants were just about worn out.

Mick was in need of food and chance would have it that we happened upon Tim and Laurence on the way back to the apartment. They were sat outside a restaurant, having only just ordered food and were kind enough to take Mick off our hands as Mrs C and I continued home.

The nature of this Camino changes from tomorrow and I will bore you with the reasons why in later blogs. We have booked the next two days ahead but with contingency built in if one of us , or more, is not up to it. Like the musketeers, we are all for one and one for all!


Wednesday, May 17, 2023

Day 10 - 16 May - Porriño to Redondela

As The Beatles famously sang:

We had a good reasonFor taking the easy way outWe soon had regrets tho’For taking the easy way out, now

They were all day trippersOne-paced, no bag yeahIt took us so long to find outAnd we found out

Sometimes, you start the day efficiently, hit the road early and get to where you’re going almost before you know it. At other times….you don’t.

With only another ten mile day in front of us, I think a bit of complacency had set in. We reluctantly departed our ten-out-of-ten apartment around half past eight, had a leisurely breakfast in a cafe and then sauntered on to Lidl to buy in a few provisions for the day. Lidl - big mistake. They may be quick at chucking your purchases through the scanner when you eventually get to the till but just the one till open? Hmm. Not sure our banana purchase was worth it.

And as we came out of the store, a big coach was depositing around fifty day-walkers on to the route we would be taking. Complacency went by the wayside. You do NOT want to walk behind these guys as they clog up all the refreshment stops en route. Almost at a jog, we hurried to the front of the day walkers and followed the yellow arrows which seemed to be taking us in a direction other than the one we needed. Half a mile. Half a bloody mile detour to avoid crossing a busy roundabout via the pedestrian tunnel. If only we’d had Modesto with us. Anyway, we arrived via the long route to the other side of the roundabout and hit the trail. A coach went past and stopped around two hundred yards ahead of us, then proceeded to deposit another fifty or so day-walkers on to our route. This time, we took a detour off the main route to walk at a pace which would hopefully land us ahead of them once we picked up the official route. What a palaver.

Today we were mainly walking along quiet country roads with the Galician landscape for company. The weather was perfect. Hazy sunshine making for a pleasant temperature. Around four miles in, we stopped for coffee in the attractive and modern village of Mos. From there we began a generally steep incline climbing one hundred and fifty meters over around a mile and a half. Another mile and a half from this high point we stopped at bar/restaurant Churrasqueria Choles for a first beer of the day and here we met another Michael and Andrea combination. I’m sure there must be plenty of married couples around the world named Michael and Andrea but two, in the same bar in a little village in Spain. At the same time. Of all the gin joints eh?

Me ole bamboo, me ole bamboo

There then began a steep decline towards Redondela, one of those that can be hard on the knees unless you walk like a drunk and zig zag down. Once back at sea level, the final mile into Redondela was a bit of a drag with the temperature having ramped up and the heat reflecting from hot roads and pathways.

Tonight we have private rooms in a hostel situated smack bang in the centre of the old town. Once rested and sorted we set out to explore. It is a lively place, not unattractive and best known for its two railway viaducts which, whilst prominent, don’t overly dominate the scene.

Our first port of call was O Café da Vila, where we had a beer….and then another one….and then another one. This was entirely the fault of Mona, from Denmark, who we met properly tonight having seen her a few times over the last few days. Everyone knows that there have been many great Danes over the years, so much so that they even named a dog breed in their honour. I asked Mona to name the most famous great Dane and she came up with Niels Henrik David Bohr, a great Dane of a physicist who won the Nobel Prize in Physics a hundred years ago for his work on atomic structures and quantum theory. Not once did she even mention Peter Schmeichel.

We then moved on to bar Los Leones which, it seemed, was trying hard not to be a bar at all as it didn’t sell any draught beer, didn’t sell wine and didn’t sell coffee. However it did sell bottles of Estrella Galicia and 1906 so we were just about okay. Here we met properly with Tim and Laurence from (near) Bristol who Mrs C had been chatting up yesterday when I was deep in thoughtful Spanglish with Modesto. Laurence is having to nurse a foot issue which may see them having to abandon the upcoming, optional Espiritual route for the more straightforward Central route to Padron. Nice guys. It will be good to spend more time with them if we meet up in Pontevedra tomorrow.

By this time I was not only tired and emotional but also feeling the effects of too much sun over the last couple of days so we found a restaurant and before I knew it I was fed, back home and safely tucked up in my single bed in our €30 private room (shared bathroom). Zzzzzzzzz